No Shortcuts to the Top

Making his way through veterinary school, Ed is constantly distracted by the mountains that line the town that his university is located in. After graduating and suffering through several years of being full-time veterinary doctor, his climbing roots finally take a Hold of his life. Dropping his hard earned career, Ed pursues his true passion for the world's highest mountains which had become more and more of a distraction. His new found life brings him happiness, despair, challenge, love, and disappointment while in pursuit of a goal he did not foresee. Though the title suggests that there are no shortcuts for success of this seemingly unattainable goal, he still manages a few regardless.

If you enjoy reading about Himalayan climbing expeditions, then reading about Ed Viesturs exploits on the 8000 meter peaks is a book you will enjoy. A veteran of 29 Himalayan expeditions spanning 18 years Ed has successfully summit 20 times on peaks over 8000 meters, including six Everest summits. His book, No Shortcuts to the Top, tells about his life from hiking and climbing in the Cascades to pursuing his career as a Doctor of Veterinarian Medicine.

Almost like a Joe Simpson book, his story starts out as a harrowing tale on the second highest mountain in the world, K2. While making a summit attempt with the late Scott Fischer, an avalanche nearly sweeps them both off of the mountain. This lesson is repeated throughout the book as Ed calculates the dangers on each of his 8000 meter expeditions. Due to the nagging voice in his head, he turns around very near the top of Annapurna and leaves this dangerous peak for his last summit.

As a child, Ed's interest is peaked when he reads the book Annapurnaby Maurice Herzog, which tells the tale of the very first 8000 meter peak conquered in 1950. Iv seems only fitting that this mountain becomes his last summit for his achievement to be reached, though it takes several attempts. Determined to come back to his family though, Ed takes only the chances he knows he must, and no more.

In the end, even though the title insinuates that there are no shortcuts for reaching his goals, Ed did manage to cut a few corners. For instance, while on his so called two-fer binge (where Ed bags two 8000 meter peaks in one season) he uses a helicopter to shuttle him and his climbing partner from Everest Base-camp to Makalu Base-camp. Foregoing the Approach marches through the high valleys. This may seem inconsequential, but to the purist it would surely be blasphemy.

Ed Viesturs will surely be remembered in climbing history as the first American to climb all 8000 meter peaks and his book No Shortcuts to the Topis an excellent account of his accomplishment. This book definitely has it's place on the shelf of mountaineering historian's and aficianado's, as should any feat as challenging as Ed's.